Seeking advice for Dusky, 3 Passes, Heaphy & more
Hi everyone :)
I've been out of NZ for almost 18 months. Before then I'd done a few tramps (mostly day trips from Auckland), Hillary trail. I've been in the UK since, and so have focused all my efforts on the mountaineering over here (trying to get my ML) - mostly North Wales and a few other places.
I'm coming back to New Zealand for just under 5 weeks in March. I've arranged some trips, in the order we'll do them they are:
- Dusky track (4 days to the sound, 1 rest day, 4 days to Manapouri, 2 days spare)
- Three Passes track (budgeting 4 days, with 1 spare day)
- Heaphy track
- Modified Tablelands circuit track (we'll go via Lodestone day 1, pre-dawn ascent of Mt Arthur day 2, and walk out day 3 - mountains are optional though).
I've sorted out the maps I need, and been in touch with an online printer to print them. I've got a sample coming any day now, and will get the rest. Some advice on waterproof maps would be nice - are the laminated ones okay? I'm trying the repro-online ones printed on Tyvek, as over in the UK we have these great Harvey's maps that are on plastic and waterproof, really light and good for refolding while in the rain.
According to my research, it's lighter and easier to have a radio receiver (for the weather reports) + PLB, than a mountain radio. Sounds about right? Any pitfalls?
Unsure on the footwear needed. I'm torn between wearing my trail runners (Inov8 Roclites), or buying a new pair of boots (I have leather boots in the UK, but I suspect they are too heavy for wearing for 8 days on the Dusky). Would trail runners cope? Otherwise I might need to get a pair of light boots that will breathe well (so not waterproof ones - advice would be nice if this is the case)
Is a 30m bit of half-rope (7.8mm diameter) a good idea for the river crossings on these tracks? Or is it dead weight and we can get by without it?
Has the snow/ice on Three Passes melted enough so that we won't all need crampons + ice axe? I was thinking I could bring a single ice axe and chop steps, and probably have the rope to belay any of the others.
What about a raincoat? I have a very good quality hardshell raincoat, would a softshell work better with the temperatures in Fiordland (e.g. I will sweat a lot more in a hardshell)?
I'm planning to sleep in huts on each - should I bring a tent on any of these trips in case (I plan to speak to the boat operator before Dusky to find out if we'll likely clash with another trip)? Bivy bag maybe?
I'm planning to bring a synthetic summer sleeping bag (rated for maybe 5 degrees C), and thermal underwear as sleeping clothes - for most of the time I suspect this will be warm enough. Any pitfalls?
Any other advice would be very much appreciated. :)
Best regards,
-CBL_Jon
32 comments
Oops, passes not assets!
With regard Mt Arthur area - we once went up Mt Arthur and spent the night out on the grasslands before the last pull up onto the ridge. A great spot. On the summit there are places you could sleep if the weather is fine. Otherwise it is quite straightforward to go up from the Mt Arthur hut and probably not too hard in the dark. Actually some locals climb it on full moon nights!
Only hazard up there are the 'tomos' or pot holes on the route across to Gordon's Pyramid, which are not too obvious when there is snow around - highly unlikely in March.
Sorry to hijack but can someone please tell me how to start
A new thread,thanks
make sure you're in the right forum from the default forums page... the list of different categories is on the right hand side, click into the correct one, then if you scroll down a bit you will see the button to start a new thread
Wondering if anyone has any experience going up any of the mountains on the side of the track?
Was considering these options:
Mt Memphis. I estimated it would take about 1hr 45mins to detour and return. If anyone has done it from Centre pass could you advise on how long it took?
http://www.topomap.co.nz/NZTopoMap?v=2&ll=-45.699812,166.91521&z=15
This guy next to Supper Cove. I estimated 5 hours to go up and down.
Mt Parker, Mt Gladstone, Matterhorn then descend down ridge and follow stream: http://www.topomap.co.nz/NZTopoMap?v=2&ll=-45.559724,167.189096&z=14
I estimated it would take 4hr extra to walk this than to take the track.
My times are probably quite far off (they're based on Naismith's rule, going 3km/h), but I just wondered quite how far off, or even if going up these mountains is possible.
Cheers :)
I didn't go up Mt Memphis due to weather when I was on the Dusky but I think from talking to others its only an hour up and even less down. I guess it depends on how long you spend up there as its a big flat hill with plenty to look at.
Moirs Guide South 7th Ed talks about Mackenzie Pass at the head of the Spey on pages 141-142. Its very cryptic with times (Moirs Guide North 8th Ed is vastly superiorly written) but it might help you. I've thought about heading up there myself one day. Personally I think your 4 hour time is way off, more like 2 days (an overnighter camping on Mackenzie Pass).
We wouldn't be doing the Mackenzie Pass if at all possible (would be heading straight from Upper Spey Hut, up onto the ridge, curve around, and then bushbash to the stream to reach the walkwire back on the Dusky track). From the map it looks as if it's possible to follow a stream and then curve left to get straight up onto Mt Parker. Would be quite a slog. The map seems to indicate it's not thick bush around that stream too, so thought that would help while ascending.
Another sign that we should do it is the stream that we'd be hitting is called "bypass stream" hehe.
I'll keep an eye out for the book (and maybe we will get a chance to speak with the local DOC office).
Oh wow, that's an ambitious route. It would still take me a couple of days to do that I feel, the climb up to Peak 1347 would probably take me 4 hours just by itself!
DOC Te Anau has Moirs Guides I think. Either that or try a Bivoac Outdoors shop depending on where you are. Looking on Google Earth the Mackenzie Pass area looks beautiful so still appeals strongly to me :)
Have returned safely back to the UK after the trip has ended. Lots of stories and lessons to tell, will write them up later today. :)
Quick summary:
Dusky track had fantastic weather (felt a bit cheated really), went up Tamatea peak from Lake Roe hut (was unnecessarily cairned and very straightforward, lovely views to a relatively inaccessible lake and to Dusky sound). Met great folks at both Loch Maree and Supper cove who fed us. Went up Mt Memphis in misty rain - was surprisingly difficult (relatively featureless, and too many lakes and small outcrops to easily follow a bearing - really showed why using back-bearings and boxing to follow a bearing could be useful, will have to practice these so they're ready for next time).
Due to the fantastic weather on Dusky, we had extra days, so decided to extend 3 passes to have a day off. First day got to Carrington hut well and good. Decided that Mt Harper next to the hut had an easy ridge to the top... Looked quick and easy. Found the correct stream to get onto Camp spur, and got onto Camp spur in good time. Was easy for a few kilometres, but then the rock quality began to change to being a lot more loose and broken. Also the ridge was noticeably notched, as in it had 10m cliffs before we'd reach the upturned thimble of a summit started. We decided to go around the West screefield to get to the ridge that way. Was tough going. Was getting near the ridge, and climbing up - loads of loose rock, just everything really. Anyway I was last, and testing a handhold - and then suddenly it gave way, and sent some further debris down too. I was sconed on the head with a block, and immediately started bleeding and feeling faint. I rested for a few moments as friend tried to get first aid out. Wound managed to clot, and after 2 minutes I felt alright again, but confidence had taken a knock. Eventually we reached the summit, and began the planned descent to White Col. This was challenging but relatively alright as we avoided the glacier. Managed to reach the Col without too much trouble. Began descending the White river, but eventually we reached a waterfall as night fell, and we turned around to find the nearby hut. We managed to find it by a combination of sheer luck (finding some cairns, as the path to Barker hut is not straightforward) and navigation skills (accoring to the map, this is the ridge that Barker hut is on... but according to the map, there was no waterfall back there, and the right-hand gorge was also not present). Stayed with some kind folks who made space for us and fed us (all our food apart from some snacks was at Carrington).
Learned a lot of lessons that day about turning around before things get out of hand, respecting alpine rock (as it's often loose and dangerous, and even testing a hold can be dangerous), treating explorations differently to routes (as in be prepared to accept that it might not go) and always being prepared (not treating a day trip as just a day trip). Ended up cancelling 3 Passes and visiting Waimakiriri Falls hut (lovely hut) before heading out, and then going up Mt Aicken on Friday as the proverbial "get back on the horse" - it was extremely straightforward. After reading the description for Mt Harper, it was also supposed to be so (although it mentions damage from the '94 earthquake may have changed things, which I would argue is definitely true).
Heaphy track was straightforward, and not as crowded as I expected. I did have to teach some trampers hut etiquette however, as they didn't seem to realize that having a loud chat at 6am in the morning was not a great idea. I learned that taking amateurs tramping can be very fun - but along with recommending them to buy high quality socks, should recommend them to buy high quality underpants too - otherwise they may get severe chafing pains).
Tablelands was fantastic too, even though that's when the big Southerly was supposed to hit. First day went up Lodestone and then to Mt Arthur hut just before the rain got heavy. Heavy rain and snow/hail was forecast, so we made the decision to alter the route to going the lowland way to Salisbury Lodge, and then trying for a sunrise on the Tuesday. Got to Salisbury lodge, but it was a bit late so decided to stay there and try and see the sunrise from Gordon's Pyramid. Woke up to an icy morning at 4:30am, and headed off on the track. Was a clear sky with stars and a dim moon providing cold warmth. The sunrise from Gordon's Pyramid was incredible as we saw Mt Arthur covered in snow, and light lit the surrounding hills and sky. Was the best sunrise I've ever seen. Then we continued to Mt Arthur, and had a good time being cautious around the tomos (we were the first on Mt Arthur and the track was covered with snow). Was relatively straightforward and a lovely day spent walking in snow with sunshine everywhere.
Thanks for all the advice which helped make our trip a success! I will post later some of the other miscellaneous lessons I learned as a help for others :)
CBL_Jon Wow, you are braver than me, going from Gordon's Pyramid to Mt Arthur in the snow! I've done it several times when there is no snow and those tomos look fearsome. Trouble is that some of them are only small diameter, covered in vegetation, and snow would easily bridge them, I expect. Several of them are literally one step away from the track. Well done! You obviously survived. If you had trekking poles I guess you can probe around?
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Forum | Tracks, routes, and huts |
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Started by | CBL_Jon |
On | 19 February 2015 |
Replies | 31 |
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