Seeking advice for Dusky, 3 Passes, Heaphy & more
Hi everyone :)
I've been out of NZ for almost 18 months. Before then I'd done a few tramps (mostly day trips from Auckland), Hillary trail. I've been in the UK since, and so have focused all my efforts on the mountaineering over here (trying to get my ML) - mostly North Wales and a few other places.
I'm coming back to New Zealand for just under 5 weeks in March. I've arranged some trips, in the order we'll do them they are:
- Dusky track (4 days to the sound, 1 rest day, 4 days to Manapouri, 2 days spare)
- Three Passes track (budgeting 4 days, with 1 spare day)
- Heaphy track
- Modified Tablelands circuit track (we'll go via Lodestone day 1, pre-dawn ascent of Mt Arthur day 2, and walk out day 3 - mountains are optional though).
I've sorted out the maps I need, and been in touch with an online printer to print them. I've got a sample coming any day now, and will get the rest. Some advice on waterproof maps would be nice - are the laminated ones okay? I'm trying the repro-online ones printed on Tyvek, as over in the UK we have these great Harvey's maps that are on plastic and waterproof, really light and good for refolding while in the rain.
According to my research, it's lighter and easier to have a radio receiver (for the weather reports) + PLB, than a mountain radio. Sounds about right? Any pitfalls?
Unsure on the footwear needed. I'm torn between wearing my trail runners (Inov8 Roclites), or buying a new pair of boots (I have leather boots in the UK, but I suspect they are too heavy for wearing for 8 days on the Dusky). Would trail runners cope? Otherwise I might need to get a pair of light boots that will breathe well (so not waterproof ones - advice would be nice if this is the case)
Is a 30m bit of half-rope (7.8mm diameter) a good idea for the river crossings on these tracks? Or is it dead weight and we can get by without it?
Has the snow/ice on Three Passes melted enough so that we won't all need crampons + ice axe? I was thinking I could bring a single ice axe and chop steps, and probably have the rope to belay any of the others.
What about a raincoat? I have a very good quality hardshell raincoat, would a softshell work better with the temperatures in Fiordland (e.g. I will sweat a lot more in a hardshell)?
I'm planning to sleep in huts on each - should I bring a tent on any of these trips in case (I plan to speak to the boat operator before Dusky to find out if we'll likely clash with another trip)? Bivy bag maybe?
I'm planning to bring a synthetic summer sleeping bag (rated for maybe 5 degrees C), and thermal underwear as sleeping clothes - for most of the time I suspect this will be warm enough. Any pitfalls?
Any other advice would be very much appreciated. :)
Best regards,
-CBL_Jon
32 comments
take waterproof trousers, in a storm they are worth their weight in gold especially above the bushline. it can and does snow year round in the south island mountains, mesh shoes let the mud and grit in, people die of hypothermia here in mid summer, get the normal images of "summer" out of your head. summer anything goes with the weather here.
"take waterproof trousers, in a storm they are worth their weight in gold especially above the bushline. it can and does snow year round in the south island mountains, mesh shoes let the mud and grit in, people die of hypothermia here in mid summer, get the normal images of "summer" out of your head. summer anything goes with the weather here."
We'll have other safety equipment (more than likely a few bivy bags, a group tarp or bothy bag, one or two space blankets [or alternatives], a radio to get daily weather reports, warm clothing) - so I don't think we need to worry about being caught out in a snow storm (also I have hiked in the snow in the UK without waterproof trousers and been quite alright). With regards to a regular storm, I suspect we will get extremely wet anyway and the pants will not do much other than keep us warm (having some thermal underwear for this purpose is probably a lighter way to achieve the same thing). Any other reason to have waterproofs? (only thing I can think of is against scrub, but hiking trousers should do that too).
Good tip on the mesh shoes letting in grit - will gaiters help to stop this? I can't really find much info on boots that are super quick to dry out - most seem to have an infatuation with goretex. The only thing I can find that comes close, is this beast: http://www.altberg.co.uk/product/jungle-microlite/
It's super lightweight (623g each!), super well draining, yet still a proper solid boot.
Or is this more of a go: http://www.keenfootwear.com/en-gb/product/shoes/men/koven-wp
"Good tip on the mesh shoes letting in grit - will gaiters help to stop this? "
Short answer - no. Gaiters only slow down crap getting into the top of your boot.
The mud and grit migrates through the material of a mesh material.
I hiked for decades in heavy old boots - and it didn't kill me. The big difference is that light boots/roclites are a huge advantage on a good even trail where you are moving fast. No question of that.
But when the footing becomes mud, scree, rock and roots - and you are travelling much slower because of the terrain - then that advantage is lost. Now it's security of footing that becomes more valuable. And protection of the feet from damage.
Of course big old clunker boots are very unfashionable these days, and the modern lighter ones work ok but are a trade-off with durability. My first pair of boots lasted many hundreds of tramping days - nowadays you may be happy to toss them after several trips.
The main thing I still look for is a decent Vibram style sole with solid edges and some stiffness.
Oh - and yes. The overtrou are to protect from severe wind chill. Not to keep you dry.
A light pair with big long zips are the go. Cheap and light is fine - I tend to treat these items as disposable.
@CBL_Jon - I've posted some other feedback on Dusky if you want to check it out. Any other questions just shoot.
Get Picaridin for the sandflies. Chemist at Te Anau recommended it and it works. They really are abominable otherwise. If, like me, you don't like being copped up in the hut take an insect hood too.
Map. NZ topos are fine and cheap. What I do is cut out the sections I need them get them laminated. Small and waterproof. The NZ topo maps smartphone app is the same map covering the whole country for like $10. And it syncs with a phone's gps to show you just where you are on it. Priceless. I find that perusing the area while connected caches the info it for when disconnected.
Navigationally the Dusky is pretty easy as the soft ground has seen the track becomes well blazed and markers are pretty frequent. In poor wx up on the Pleasant Range or Center Pass progress would of course be more challenging (watch out for how slippery tussocky slopes get when wet). Staying on track on the sections beside the Seaforth (which is in flood almost as often as not) can be a mission thanks to mud and surface water. You REALLY want to be doing those bits out of high flow times. If you can't see much of the drowned trees in Loch Maree take the day off if you can, and when you get good wx think about doing a double march.
Mud. You can pick your way around most of the mud pits and others have bits of wood chucked in them that make great stepping stones. You need good gaiters though or you'll be de-gritting frequently. (I've got some large OR Crocs I bought just for Dusky and don't intend to use again if you're interested. I'd have to dig em out and see what condition they're in).
Poles are essential. It's so slippery you'll still fall sometimes even with poles, but you'll fall almost minutely otherwise.
Forget about fast drying boots or socks. Even if you find dry wood to burn, you'll only be getting em wet minutes out from the hut each morning. Light merino socks are fine and I can recommend these boots:
http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Hiking-Boots-Reviews/Salomon-Quest-4D-GTX
"A trail runner on steroids".
In NZ you should always take a bivi bag and sleeping matt. One day you'll praise yourself for it. I take Ice Breaker's warmest long johns and Montane Minimus rain pants, that combo giving me confidence to not bother taking any other leg wear outside winter. You need rainpants for storms but I sweat like mad in cheap ones.
Light sleeping bag in Dusky is fine so long as you can keep all your insulative layers dry. Which is why they (and anything else susceptible to water damage) need to be packed in dry bags. Forget pack liners, dry bags will keep your vital kit dry even if you go pack swimming.
I don't know about a rope. All major waterways in Dusky are wire-bridged (if you've never done one of those have a play on the first one to get it sussed before you hit the dangerous ones; pretty easy really, face front, turn feet sideways, maintain three contact points and watch your poles don't snag). But it is conceivable a flooded side creek could stand between your party and a hut. If you've experience with the techniques, maybe; if not, no way.
Thanks so much for the advice Craigo!! A lot to digest. I will have a think about my kit in light of this advice.
Thinking about your kit is always a good idea, as is listening to (and thinking about) all the advice offered. But nothing is as important as the sense and judgement you take with you.
Consider doing your trips in the reverse order, (north to south) You'll experience a much better learning progression.
hughvannoorden(at) gmail.com
its not a perfect world,. if something happens to slow you down full wet weather gear and over trousers are worth their weight in gold you minimise the extra chill because you cant move fast. just because you've been fine without certain items in the past means nothing if you end up in different scenarios like the above.
@Hugh vN: That was the plan, but I really wanted to hike with my parents on the easy tracks (I think it's their last chance to get into tramping), and one had only a 2 week window in which I had to arrange the easy track. So in order to do that, and time the Dusky so that it still fell within dry season, it had to be this way.
@waynowski: I will carefully consider them and probably bring them. I guess over here I have been in very cold conditions, but not often when soaking wet (come close though, and waterproof trousers were indeed very warm - I was in the Cairngorms being sleeted on at -9 with high winds (80kms+) with just overtrou and thermals on the legs, and was quite okay).
@CBL Jon, trips like the 3 passes climb over alpine assets in the sthn alps.
I don't wear longs or over trousers normally, but when travelling the alpine areas, I always have wind prof/waterproof over trou plus merino longs if case I get caught out in high winds snow rain etc. the alpine passes can be lethal, you may encounter winds you can't stand up in, and exposure is a real risk
Cheers
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Forum | Tracks, routes, and huts |
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Started by | CBL_Jon |
On | 19 February 2015 |
Replies | 31 |
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