Ngauruhoe without specialised equipment

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  • Hi Does anyone have any advice about summiting Ngauruhoe this weekend, without any real alpine experience, and without an ice axe or crampons (or with, but only theoretical knowledge of how to use them)? I'm an experienced, fit and sensible tramper, with all other appropriate equipment. The weather looks OK. And I did the crossing on Saturday just passed, and there was a bit of snow cover but not too much. The summit looked pretty achievable to a novice. Thanks in advance. Matthew
  • Go hard.
  • foot wear you can kick steps into snow easily with, stiff soles are best.... ice axe is a glorified walking stick unless you take a slide and you may need one to stop you sliding and know how to use it.... depends how hard the snow is....
  • Last weekend it looked to have a dusting of snow somewhere between a third to half way down. There might be a bit more snow this week. I'd say give it a go but be prepared to turn back if it is too icey/slippery.
  • weeeeeeeeeeeeeee bump Others have climbed with similar experiance and got away with it but if you get it wrong and go for a slide without knowing how to arrest you aint stopping till you reach the snowline and high speed rocks. Could cause more than a little gravel rash
  • Don't know where you are, but there should be a tramping club that has an instruction & practice day for newbies on ice axe & crampons ?. Trying to figure things out as you go further up the mountain doesn't sound too good to me. A lot of the first summiting around Mt Cook Park was done with axe, but without crampons.
  • yes but early climbers in mt cook park had hobnailed boots that gripped better in ice than rubber solded boots... and htey had long ice axes to cut steps...
  • crampons are a relitivly modern device and ice axes are nothing like what they used to be. Old axes were long to make cutting steps easier new ones are shorter as step cutting is only done on hard bits and its main use is to arrest a fall. Its a convenient walking pole and soft bit finder as well. Crampons are easy enough to get used to although they are sharp and will cause horrid cuts if used wrong. Also if they are not fitted right they can slip which will result in a nasty fall. Ice axes seem simple but for fall arrest there is a technique for whichever way you fall. There is bound to be a you tube video on the subject but there is a very good reason why my tramping clubs alpine instruction spent a full day of fall arrest out of a 2 day course. Its the same reason that 3/4 of any first aid course is spent on CPR. It may save your life. Ive seen your name come up here a few times so am not doubting ability etc but climbing is a different ball game You might be ok but the risks are so much higher and the consequences so much worse. I wouldnt do it
  • 1 deleted message from Pro-active
  • @Matthew1 I appreciate you're not saying you're going to experiment with IA & C as you attempt Ngauruhoe. I was just suggesting that it's not too hard to get some tuition that would make things a whole lot more accessible over winter. Cheers !.
  • " my tramping clubs alpine instruction spent a full day of fall arrest out of a 2 day course." sounds like a boring bloody course, I would of asked for a refund hahahaha
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Forum Tracks, routes, and huts
Started by Matthew1
On 14 May 2014
Replies 47
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