Looking across the head of the gut as it turns to the right (west). After climbing up beside the stream in the floor of the gut, cross it and continue up the rocks past the waterfall (middle of frame). At the head of the rocks a much smaller second waterfall comes down (dark patch middle of left third of frame). Climb here, initially almost vertically, on the true left up grass and rock, then climb and sidle to the right (north) up grass (the dark green patch in the left half of photo) to where the angle eases off and slopes up to the left (south) at the upper patch of rocks. Climb south all the way to the top at Emily Pass.

The initial short vertical climb by the second waterfall is the crux. I've seen this slope both dry and wet, and it feels extremely dangerous when wet (the bank was weeping water on the day of this photo despite the overall dry conditions). A slip here would be serious.

January 2015