After taking 5 days with 16 day rations aboard,we`d lightened up by the time we got to Martins Bay,so we had a rest day.Getting to here,is pretty straight forward-even the Demon Trail reputation is overrated,unless you were taking out 200 cattle with you in Davey Gunns `era.Leaving Martins Bay,there`s a bit of niggle in the scrub past Longreef Point but then it`s beach,rock travel until you hit the sandy beach a couple of hours before Big Bay Hut.A mate who was to join us here,sent a note in by chopper saying he wouldn`t make it,& attached two footlong Subway rolls as a way of saying,`keep up ya greens.` Once past here,it`s on to the Pyke.The reason we`d come,apart from the nutrition boost,was to have a look at Lake Wilmot.Johnathon White had painted an oil of this lake back in the early 70s,& this had hung  in our lounge since I was in short pants.Still in short pants on the south side of sixty,I`d come with Maggie to `put ourselves in the picture.`Just past the old airstrip which George Wyber had put in,in 1960,the route led us out onto the Pyke riverbed,where we were hailed by two characters from Wanaka,Brian & Kat,in their wee rubber,2 kg kayaks.They`d gone round in 3 days,what had taken us 11.They would`ave had the odd fright but after a yarn in the rain,we were back to it.That night,we had a dry,balmy night within coeee of L Wilmot.We like the gentlely does it approach & after another day,we decided on an extra night at Olivine Hut.Went up for a decko at Olivine Falls,a cracker & generally dried gear & played with the axe.At the head of Lake Alabaster we put in another camp & walked up to Alabaster Falls,worth the look,just 10 minutes away.Then that southerly that dumped snow on Canterbury/Southland came through.No snow,or rain but strong enough to stop us walking the lake edge & complete the circuit at Alabaster Hut.Instead,we took to the bush up the hill beside the lake,fortuitously finding forty year old NZ Forestry permolat markers on Davey Gunns cattle track;sections of it,sort of useable but came adorned with ginormous supplejack & numerous windfall.C`est la vie.We ran out of day so camped 2 hours short of our goal & had an easy next day.If you`re at Alabaster Hut,there`s a giant rimu just behind the hut.At 9m circumference,it`s worth poking around & gawking at.Then,back on the yellow brick road,the formed track onto Hidden Falls Hut & the road end.This was vastly improved in the 60s & 70s with the Governments` PEP scheme.They did a great job;you could almost ride your bike to L Alabaster & DOC are maybe considering this.The present government haven`t written off joining the Hollyford with the Haast highway;personally I disagree but what price progress?We went through in June-generally more predictable settled weather & a distinct lack of people.Even most of the  the sandflies had gone to Fiji.We stretched our trip to 18 days but three hardnuts from Dunedin,shot around in 7.Whatever floats ya boat.

This route is raw but attractive & best taken without water.If this was the 1960s,Ed Cotters` outfit could`ave put you in here for 5 days,for just under 17 pounds.Before that,Davey Gunn could lighten your wallet & help you in with packhorses & a dinghy/launch to help you evade the Demon Trail.Mr Gunn reckoned the handiest gadget in a hut,was a sieve.Why,asked one chap?To get the mouse shit outa the flour.Now ya know.

Yarmoss wanted to know a couple of things;yes,we looked at the perspective of Whites painting,but we decided not to packfloat the Pyke to get closer.Pt 2-to stay 18 days,just flex your back muscles & stay put.Throw away the watch & explore,photograph,have more rest days & generally soak it up.Sometimes literally.I lost a bit of weight,half a stone,but I`m closer to the biscuit tins now we`re out, so....