A steep and somewhat nerve-wracking ascent from the Sth Huxley to the pass into the Hunter at Forbes Hut. I once read that 'judicious scrambling provides access into the head of the Sth Huxley' from the Hunter. Finally got the opportunity to try it out.

The photo is taken from near 'V notch' pass, showing the Huxley side of the pass. Coming over V notch gave a good opportunity to spy out a route.

Low section up the obvious scree is easy going. The mid section is the tricky bit - the contours get very close, and snow tussock is not the best for grip. Pass is framed by 2 gullies. Start up very steep tussock ridge beside northern gully, climbing some 200m weaving between bluffs. Sidle south when going blocked by big bluffs almost to next gully south for a steep but passable ridge to slopes above. Once over the lip the gentler slopes just below the pass get much better - a couple of short scrambles through bluffs and you're on good scree all the way to the summit